Have you noticed that social photographs in newspapers and magazines all look pretty much the same?

The subjects usually groupings of 2, 3 or 4 people, looking into the camera, most often with a glass in their hands and wearing a cheesy smile and if they have been to modelling school, a hand on hip sideways look.

When working for Playboy at their head office in Chicago, many decades ago, as head of marketing and PR, I issued a directive to the many photographers supplying social pics of VIP’s in the many Playboy Clubs around the USA, that I would not publish photos where subjects were looking at the camera with a smile.  I wanted to have photos with a bit of action, with a bit of pizzazz, showing subjects doing something, engaged in conversation, not the boring photos that we see so often, also photos that showed the ambience of the event.  Pictures that showed the locale, the food, the drink service and much more.   In movies, these types of shots are called cutaways and are rarely seen in publications, let’s change all that.

I was recently invited to Water Polo by the Sea at the Bondi Icebergs, it was a truly fantastic event, loads of beautiful people, lots of great food and sensational drinks, what more could anyone wish for.  The women and men, were dressed to the nines, most wore fantastic outfits and everywhere I looked there was a photo opportunity.

I must admit that I committed a cardinal mistake – I did not think it was going to be such a great event with so many photo opportunities and I did not bring the spare battery for my digital camera.  After taking over 300 photographs, my battery power was starting to run low.  Lesson: always carry a spare battery, one never knows when one might need it.

Memory is never really a problem as I always use 8 gig memory cards that deliver well over 1000 photographs at the highest resolution.  When travelling, I take at least six 8 gig memory cards, enabling me to shoot lots of pictures.

The motto is being prepared, always take an extra battery and spare memory cards, as well as keeping a spare one in your wallet or purse.

So here are a few of the many photographs I took at Water Polo by the Sea, they show some interesting people and give you an idea of what the event was all about.

Visit www.johnpondworld.com and  http://www.johnpondcamera.com     John Pond

MAGAZINES: http://ebook.aprs.com.au/issue/47118 The Retiree eBookhttp://www.cruisepassenger.com.au/  J.P.  (21) John Pond facebook                  SPECTATOR GROUP: http://www.thespectator.com.au/ also CHRONICLE, TIMES, LEADER,Travel Editor representing most of Syney’s prestigeous Eastern Suburbs. Destinations – for the discerning traveller   Senior Reviewer   TripAdvisor  Sandra Tiltman Group:  Weekly Travel & Lifestyle Page in Spectator Group www.talkingtravelwithsandrat.com Blog: SANDRATBLOG.COM & MORE

NEW NIKON: The Nikon D5200 was recently announced throughout Europe, Asia and Australia.

In the mean time, there’s sure to be some great deals on older Nikon models as as they near their end-of-life.

I am looking forward to testing this camera as I am always on the lookout for high quality cameras that are lightweight for my overseas excursions.  Less is often more.

I like the 4/3rds format due to the smaller camera size, but miss the larger sensor. I believe this camera is extremely good in its video mode and sorts a stereo microphone with provision for a plug in external mike.

The photo below was taken by me in the picturesque town of Honfleur in France while on a cruise last year. Technical Details: Nikon D70  1/400sec at f10 ISO 1/320 set on Auto, Quality L.

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John Pond is Sometimes a Grumpy Old Man « www. John Pond Grumpy Old Man. comMAGAZINES: http://ebook.aprs.com.au/issue/47118 The Retiree eBookhttp://www.cruisepassenger.com.au/  J.P.  (21) John Pond facebook              SPECTATOR GROUP: http://www.thespectator.com.au/ also CHRONICLE, TIMES, LEADER,Travel Editor representing most of Syney’s prestigeous Eastern Suburbs. Destinations – for the discerning traveller   Senior Reviewer   TripAdvisor  Sandra Tiltman Group:  Weeekly Travel & Lifestyle Page in Spectator Group www.talkingtravelwithsandrat.com Blog: SANDRATBLOG.COM & MORE.

In my travels around the world I run into many amateur photographers, mainly using point-and-shoot cameras.  As amateurs, most usually set their cameras on automatic at all times and in doing so, they miss out on some great photo opportunities.

I must admit that I leave my camera on automatic probably 90% of the time, but there are those times one must be ready to switch to manual controls to get those pictures that really stand out.

Locking focus and exposure can be accomplished very easily while still leaving one’s camera in the automatic mode, this is achieved by selecting the area of the picture one wants to focus on and the exposure area and holding down the shutter release button halfway.  Keeping the button half depressed, frame the picture and take the photograph by depressing the shutter fully.

See the photograph of the class of lemonade in which I have selected focus on the glass, notice how it makes a picture stand out, or at least I think so.

Keep your camera handy at all times: I was walking through the grounds of my hotel in Waikiki and noticed this bride waiting to have a photograph taken by a professional. I swung
my camera around and took the photo within two or three seconds, it turned out very well.

On my main camera, macro is automatic and when one focuses at fairly close distance the camera automatically selects the macro mode: I find it very handy for photographing food on my travels.

The moral of the story is read your cameras instruction manual and learn how to work some of your cameras manual settings, you’re find you will take better pictures.

Just remember, it’s not the camera that takes good photographs, its the photographer.

I have just returned from a wonderful cruise on the new to our shores, Carnival Spirit, and am preparing for another two day cruise tomorrow on the same ship after its Aussification.  During the cruise from Honolulu to Sydney via Tahiti and Fiji I took over 1,500 photographs on board, here are some of them.  Most of the time my trusty Olympus OMD was set on Automatic with some periods where it was set in P mode at around 4000 ASA.  It will take me some time to go through these, but at first quick look they came out pretty well.

A point of interest was Carnival Spirit’s photo department.  They had at least four photographers on duty each night taking portraits as well as informal photos around the ship.  Also a full time videographer that was making a ship’s video for passengers to purchase.  Americans love their family portraits, I wonder if Australians will purchase as many photos on board as their North American counterparts.  I was very impressed at the multitude of backgrounds offered, as well as green screen backgrounds in which almost any background could be superimposed.  These deluxe portraits sold for around $20 with other informal photos costing a lot less. Photos were offered in many sizes as well as on canvas and mounted in books.

Although I took an external flash, I did not use it once, opting to use a higher ASA rating to give a more natural look.  With the enormous ASA ranges available on modern cameras, the use of flash is rarely necessary.

Photographing food is becoming more popular and I saw several fellow passengers photographing their dishes at meal times.  I was once on a cruise where the American couple sitting opposite us said “Don’t you have this kind of food in Australia?” as I dutifully photographed each dish served to me.

I use my camera as a diary.  As a travel writer it saves me taking copious notes and brings back memories of each meal. I even photograph tickets and bills on each trip, this serves as an ideal way to keep records, especially if you wish to justify tax deductions.  When traveling keep your camera with you at all times, it must be Murphy’s Law, but every time I leave my camera behind, usually, a great photo opportunity is missed.

Finally the long-rumored D600 – a full-frame DSLR aimed at enthusiasts, and I am sure professionals as well, with a price around $2500 for body only. It will also come packaged with a 24 to 85 lens for under $3500.  For a full frame with all the bells and whistles, this is great value.

I managed to get my hands on one at Paxtons, one of my favourite camera stores and the largest family owned independent retailer in Australia. The D600 is significantly cheaper than its big brother the D800, and in fact every other current full-frame DSLR, so I may have to re-think my recent change to 4/3^rd format.  I have over a dozen lenses from my old Nikon film cameras that I thought will fit, but apparently not so some of my older lenses.  So I would suggest you check to see if your lenses will work on the D600.

How wonderful to put on a lens that says 20mm and it actually is 20mm. The camera is a work of art and in spite of the fact that I really don’t need a full frame, I wonder if I can restrain myself from buying one.

The D600 offers similar build quality and operational ergonomics as the popular DX-format D7000, this is hugely significant. It’s full frame, but not only that, it matches or exceeds the pixel count of every other full-frame DSLR except  the D800, it seems to be a camera that all enthusiasts and many professionals will lust after.  I’ve already started lusting. Previously a full frame SLR cost many thousands of dollars, now it is within the range, although not cheap, for those enthusiasts wanting the best without breaking the bank who will undoubtly buy one.

LETS LOOK AT VIDEO and COMPETITION

Both the Canon EOS 6D and the Nikon D600 are offering full-frame sensors, but Nikon has the higher resolution device in the shape of its 24.3 million pixel device. Canon has 20.2 megapixels sensor.

Using more pixels can increase the chance of image noise, but a higher count is helpful if you want to crop into an image and retain high quality. Although the Canon EOS 5D Mark III offers an impressive 61 point autofocus system, the Canon EOS 6D doesn’t fare anywhere near as well, with just an 11 point system. This is fewer than the 19 points found on the APS-C sensored Canon EOS 7D, and just two more than the Canon EOS 60D.

Nikon, on the other hand, has included substantially more AF points, with 39 on the Nikon D600. However, there’s something else that needs to be considered with these cameras. Canon claims that the EOS 6D is able to focus all the down to -3EV, while the Nikon D600 can only manage -1EV. This could make a big difference to low light and night time shooting.

Both the Canon EOS 6D and Nikon D600 come with latest generation processors. Canon, however, has the edge when it comes to sensitivity settings, offering native speeds of ISO 100-25,600, expandable to ISO 50-102,400. Meanwhile, the D600′s native settings are ISO 100-6400, expandable to 50-25,600.

I’m biased being a Nikon man through and through, both cameras offer great features.  You be the judge.

PHOTO: Michael Zitser, Marcia Paxton and John Paxton. Paxtons Photographic Pty Ltd (Sydney,NSW)

Camera with lens from under $4,000

As an old TV and film producer and Director, I started my career as a cameraman at channel Nine..  My love of photography has been mainly in the still arena, but apart from shooting professional film productions, where I used mainly Arriflex and Panavision cameras, my amateur pursuits were limited to 3 chip pro/amateur cameras.  In this area most enthusiastic amateurs are limited by size and price.

Although I have not been able to get my hands on this camera yet, I felt I should report  this camera that I believe will revolutionise smaller budget productions and give amateurs the opportunity to duplicate high-end professional quality. Achieve the look of a feature film on a small budget with the Blackmagic Cinema Camera! With a2.5K CMOS image sensor delivering 13 stops of dynamic range, and an EF-compatible lens mount, amazing high quality movie footage from a compact and affordable body is now possible. Recording uncompressed Cinema DNG RAW and industry-standard Apple ProRes and Avid DNxHD file formats directly to 2.5” SSD drives*, and sporting a 5” LCD Touch Screen with easy metadata entry, you can get the shots and edits you want – on-time and on-budget.

Standard connections include 3Gb/s SDI out, mic/line in, 12V-30V external power, headphone out, LANC and Thunderbolt^. Furthermore, Davinci Resolve grading software is included! The Blackmagic is perfect for the budding indie filmmaker or seasoned pro looking for an impressive-yet-compact cinematic solution.   

* Does not include 2.5” SSD drive (required; sold separately). Must be formatted as HFS+ on a Mac or using Macdrive on a Windows machine.

This is a body only kit and does not include a lens.,high quality lenses from different manufacturers are available for under a thousand dollars. A compatible lens is required to shoot video footage. Mac Thunderbolt will output 10 bit 4:2:2 1920×1080 video. The camera should be able to capture RAW from Thunderbolt in a future firmware update.  I can’t wait to get my hands on this camera. John Pond

TECHNICAL DETAILS: Courtesy Digital Camera warehouse 1300 356 220

Went to a preview of this exhibition at Sydney Art Gallery.  The first comprehensive exhibition in Australia of the work of Eugène Atget (1857–1927) will showcase over 200 photographs primarily from the more than 4000-strong collection of Musée Carnavalet, Paris, with the important inclusion of Atget’s work, as compiled by Man Ray, from the collection of George Eastman House, Rochester, USA.

The photographs offer a portrait of the city of Paris and its outskirts and clearly reveal the evolution of Atget’s work. Atget did not train as a photographer and only turned to it to try to earn a living, having been unsuccessful in other fields. He started out in the provinces but soon arrived in Paris, where he lived for the rest of his life. Atget was considered a commercial photographer who sold what he called ‘documents for artists’, ie, photographs of landscapes, close-up shots, genre scenes and other details that painters could use as reference. As soon as Atget turned his attention to photographing the streets of Paris, his work attracted the attention of leading institutions such as Musée Carnavalet and the Bibliothèque Nationale, which became his principal clients.

The Art Gallery of NSW is the only Australian venue. The exhibition is jointly organised by Fundación Mapfre, Nederlands Fotomuseum, Art Gallery of New South Wales, Musée Carnavalet-Histoire de Paris, and Paris Musées.  Although very interesting due to the subject matter, I do not feel the prints were that outstanding, from a photographic point of view.  John Pond   

On view  Admission $10.00, $8.00 concession  24 Aug – 4 Nov 2012  Art Gallery of New South Wales, Art Gallery Road, The Domain, Sydney

In future posts I will cover some basics on how to improve your video productions.  With so many digital cameras including video recording options, it is within everyone’s ability to shoot some “home movies”.   I used to shoot a lot of videos, but being a bit of a purist, I nearly always used a tripod, with a fluid head enabling very smooth pan and tilts. As the years are catching up, It’s hard work lugging around a tripod as I travel the globe.

Today’s younger generation, used to shaky images on music videos, don’t seem to care about smooth pan and tilts and transitions.  Again, being old school I believe that one should learn the correct way to do things and only then forget about the rules and go hand held with lots of quick cuts.  Again, when I was a professional film maker in the 60′s we learnt that a scene should never be less than 5 second, today quick cuts of less than a second are not unusual.  I still believe in cuts of around 3 second as the shortest if you don’t want to send the oldies mad.

Video cameras have come down in price so much, for under a thousand dollars they do just about everything.  But don’t be seduced with to many bells and whistles.  Films are perfected with good editing in your computer and not in the camera.

I am a Mac fan and their editing programmes are fantastic from iMovie to the professional Final Cut Pro which is, I believe too high end for the average video maker, but is the most widely used editing programme for professionals.  In future articles, I will cover more about video production.  From zoom lenses to planing your story, from special effects to creating mood.  Tropfest film festival, has done a great deal to encourage young film (or should I say video) makers. If you really want to give your video career a boost, consider entering this competition.  http://tropfest.com/au/

John Pond

For the younger of you out there, we over 55′s feel sorry for you.  You missed out on so much.  Look back and learn, when movie stars were movie stars and the music could be understood, even up until the 70′s.

This great clip includes Rita Hayworth, Fred Astaire, Gene Kelly, Phil Silvers and others dancing to the Bee Gees’ Stayin’ Alive, who I had the pleasure of knowing in the 60′s.  We actually met at a camera shop in Sydney.   John Pond

Wide setting, available light. I use wide setting the most.

When choosing to buy a new point and shoot camera or even an SLR (single lens reflex) or any of the models in between, one of the most important factors to look for is the quality, focal length and aperture of the lens.

With the megapixel count of most cameras over 10 megapixels, which is more than enough for any amateur photographer, capable of giving sharp A3 enlargements, what you should really look at is the lens.

Frame your subject using zoom, crop images for better effect

The two most important factors are focal length and aperture.  The aperture is expressed in the lens’ maximum opening, in other words, how much light will it let in to the sensor (or in the old days, to the film).  What one should look for is the biggest F Stop possible, for example an F2 lens lets in more light than an F3.5 lens.  The lower the number, the more light is let in.  This is important when taking action photos when a higher shutter speed is required, or taking available light photos without a flash, giving more natural and realistic photographs.

Lenses with low apertures on SLRs can go down to 1.8 or even .09.  These lenses can cost thousands of dollars each and are used only by professionals needing to shoot at very low light levels.  Thanks to the magic of digital imaging and high megapixel count, amateurs are able to use their settings to make their camera sensors pick up images, even in extremely low light situations.  In my career as a travel photojournalist, I often have the need to shoot inside buildings and food in restaurants.  I use my sensor’s high sensitivity settings to get very acceptable images suitable for magazine publication.

One of the big problems is that probably 95% of amateurs never take their camera off the automatic setting.  This is fine for most photography, but if you want to get those really outstanding photographs, learn how to set your camera to a higher sensitivity setting, usually under the P (Program) thus enabling your camera to stay set at the higher ISO rating.  I usually use around the 4000 sensitivity setting which gives me outstanding images with little or no noticeable noise.  Noise is image degradation similar to grain in those that can remember shooting on film.

Back to the lens.  Most people are attracted to a long zoom and seem to be impressed when the sales person zooms the lens out to its longest point.  A long zoom is fine if you are shooting a lot of sports and want to zoom in to your children playing.  On the other hand I prefer a camera to have a wider lens as I shoot more scenery and hotel interiors.  Having a long zoom is of no interest on my main camera.  If you have a camera with inter-changeable lenses that are becoming widely available in the point and shoot range, you can just change lenses and put on a telephoto lens that will bring up distant images.  Remember, go for a camera with built in anti-shake capabilities as when shooting on long lenses, hand shakes can cause blurring unless shot with very high shutter speeds. John Pond

Shooting at twilight with neon signs ads a new perspective

Before a recent overseas trip to the USA, I decided to lash out and buy the new Olympus OMD, which has been advertised heavily on local TV.  This is not a camera for novices and unless you know a little about photography you are wasting your money.  Conversely, if you have some photographic knowledge and are prepared to spend a couple of hours reading the instruction book and learning how to use this great camera, then you are making a good investment.  At around $1400 with a 22-50mm lens, it’s not cheap, a little heavy, but I was very impressed with the results.

Shoot available light when possible, flash destroys overall look. Photo by Sandra.

I find most amateur photographers are frugal with the number of photos they take, shooting their spouse in front of a landmark, the average photographer may take just one photo.  A professional, with greater photo knowledge will take several.  I recommend at least 3 to 6.  With the price of memory cards so low, it costs zero to lash out and take several photos.  That’s why some amateur photographers have most of their photos with their subject’s eyes closed or squinting.  Take your photos faster, why do amateurs take so long to set up a shot?  Photos taken faster are more natural and life like.  Talk to your subject, let them know when you are taking their picture.  I usually say “on 3” then I count 1 – 2 – and take the photo on 2.

Avoid photographing people against bright backgrounds, such as the sky, unless the sun is behind your back, subjects faces will usually turn out very dark unless you know how to compensate with exposure control, which very few amateurs know how to do.

When travelling, I take at least 1,000 photos a week, often a lot more.  I always ask my friends how many photos do they take on their vacation, often the answer is in the dozens and of course they are usually terrible, guess they don’t read my photo tips.

The moral of the story is USE YOUR CAMERA, read the instruction manual, although I must admit they are often hard to decipher and take lots of photos from different angles.

Don’t cut off legs, move in closer to your subject, photograph food, the shots bring back memories of where you had that great, or not so great meal.  Photograph the locals for a bit of background colour.  Photograph street signs and car number plates to identify where you took the photos.  Remember your camera can’t take great photos if hidden away in a pocket or purse.  Wear your camera around your neck and always be ready for those great unexpected photos.  Most award winning photos were taken on the run – so to speak.  They say, “A picture is worth a thousand words” so start talking. John Pond

In my conversations about photography with fellow travelers, I have ascertained most know or understand nothing about file sizes. When they buy their point and shoot cameras, they are told to shoot on Auto and that is all they need to do. Even the most basic digital cameras are capable of so much more, so let me try to explain about file sizes.

Usually listed as Low Medium and High plus Raw (Raw is used mainly by professionals), they control the quality of your overall picture, along with other factors.

A camera salesperson may set the quality to low or medium, which greatly increases the number of photos you may take, thus impressing the customer. For example, depending on the size of your memory card (I use 8 megapixels as standard) they cost around $30.  At high resolution I get about 600 exposures on a SD memory card.

Set on medium, the number usually doubles and at Low it triples.  Most non professionals are impressed that they are getting 2000 or so photos.  By the way, let me say this is OK for small prints and to share by email with your friends. BUT … if you want high quality and the ability to make huge poster prints, use the HIGH quality setting.  You have to study your instruction manual to make these adjustments.  For most amateur photographers, I would recommend MEDIUM as the best option.

Pixel Count also enters into the equation.  Today there are so many cameras with a high pixel count that this is hardly a problem.  Anything over 10 megapixels is fine – anything over 12 megapixels is overkill for the average beginning photographer.

Sensor size is also very important.  Most small point and shoot cameras have the smallest sensors.  Professional digital single lens reflexes have larger sensors: up to full frame 35mm size – again overkill for amateurs.  The new four thirds are a great comprimise for advanced amateurs wanting great quality in a smaller package (camera size is less than average SLR size). So you can see it’s a bit of a minefield.  Shop at a reputable camera store and get advice, but tell the salesperson what type of photos you want to take.

For beginners, this can be very confusing, but if you want to take your photographs to a higher level, there is a great deal of satisfaction to be had in taking some control over your camera.  The most expensive, top of the line cameras will not make you a better photographer, it’s the person behind the camera that makes the photos great, not the camera.

In my conversations about photography with fellow travelers, I have ascertained most know or understand nothing about file sizes. When they buy their point and shoot cameras, they are told to shoot on Auto and that is all they need to do. Even the most basic digital cameras are capable of so much more, so let me try to explain about file sizes. Usually listed as Low Medium and High plus Raw (Raw is used mainly by professionals), they control the quality of your overall picture, along with other factors.

Usually a camera salesperson may set the quality to low or medium, which greatly increases the number of photos you may take, thus impressing the customer. For example, depending on the size of your memory card (I use 8 megapixels as standard) they cost around $30.  At high resolution I get about 600 exposures on a SD memory card. Set on medium, the number usually doubles and at Low it triples.  Most non professionals are impressed that they are getting 2000 or so photos.  By the way, let me say this is OK for small prints and to share by email with your friends. BUT … if you want high quality and the ability to make huge poster prints, use the HIGH quality setting.  You have to study your instruction manual to make these adjustments.  For most amateur photographers, I would recommend MEDIUM as the best option.

Pixel Count also enters into the equation.  Today there are so many cameras with a high pixel count that this is hardly a problem.  Anything over 10 megapixels is fine – anything over 12 megapixels is overkill for the average beginning photographer. Sensor size is also very important.  Most small point and shoot cameras have the smallest sensors.  Professional digital single lens reflexes have larger sensors: up to full frame 35mm size – again overkill for amateurs.  The new four thirds are a great comprimise for advanced amateurs wanting great quality in a smaller package (camera size is less than average SLR size).

So you can see it’s a bit of a minefield.  Shop at a reputable camera store and get advice, but tell the salesperson what type of photos you want to take.

For beginners, this can be very confusing, but if you want to take your photographs to a higher level, there is a great deal of satisfaction to be had in taking some control over your camera.  The most expensive, top of the line cameras will not make you a better photographer, it’s the person behind the camera that makes the photos great, not the camera.

Photo I took on Nikon F2 using Ektachrome at Playboy Casino, Bahamas in 70′s

MY DAYS AT PLAYBOY, CHICAGO.  One of the more interesting jobs I wound up with was working as a Vice President at Playboy International at their head office based in Chicago.

As a teenager, Playboy Magazine was banned in Australia and if you knew a Qantas steward or hostess, as they were called in those days of non political correctness, you asked them to bring you a copy from the US.  The photography in Playboy was outstanding.  The centerfolds were taken with 8” x 10” view cameras on Ektachrome.  Apart from all the jokes about only reading Playboy for the articles, which were outstanding, written usually by award winning authors, it was perhaps every young man’s dream to be on a Playboy photoshoot.

Well, for me, that dream came true when I was offered the position of head of world wide public relations and marketing for their clubs, resorts and casinos.  Back in the 1970’s, Playboy owned several hotels and dozens of Playboy Clubs, as well as casinos throughout the US, Bahamas, England and Japan.

Naturally, one of my first stops when investigating the Playboy building was the Photo Department, where most of the Playboy centerfolds were photographed.  I quickly struck up some firm friendships there with the photographers and assistants.  I was amazed to find they had a full Ektachrome processing lab to develop all their images and often I was consulted for my photographic technical expertise.

I used the lab to develop photos that I took for PR purposes.  Although I was supposed to use outside photographers, I balked at their $1000 half day charges and did most of the photography myself.  Many of these images were published in Playboy and I must admit I had a great deal of satisfaction at seeing my name in the photo credits of this prestigious publication. Just a little technical information.  In those days (the 1970’s) all centerfolds were shot on 8” x 10” cameras with other images mainly being shot on Hassleblads’ 120 format and Nikons’ 35mm format.  Today digital formats are mainly used.

Playboy was renowned for their outstanding nude photography, especially when most of the models were amateurs and considered to be “the girl next door”.  One of Playboy’s trade secrets was that the girls, after being chosen for the centerfold, were invited to get to know the photographer socially.  The chosen girl, who was to receive a large fee, was invited into the photographer’s home to dine with his family and generally get to know each other so that they could be relaxed during the shooting session, which sometimes lasted several days.  This certainly paid dividends as most of the finished centerfolds were considered works of art.

Believe it or not and contrary to public opinion, there was virtually no manipulation of images.  Bear in mind this was before the days of Photoshop, where image manipulation was done with a fine camel hair brush.  Potential Playboy photo subjects were told to get rid of any tan lines so that photos could be “as natural as possible”. John Pond

Night PHOTOS: Dust off your tripod or go and buy one, then head for the city this evening to take some outstanding photos of Sydney’s brilliant light show. Using a tripod for night photography is one way of assuring very sharp pictures. Most aspiring photographers cannot hold a camera steady using shutter speeds of less than 1/100th of a second. I manage to keep pictures sharp at a 1/40th of a second, but it took a long time to master the technique.

Of course one can hand hold, but for optimum results a tripod is best. With a tripod one can be in their own photos with flash fill. Don’t stand too far away from your camera and don’t be afraid to bracket exposures. Use your cameras self timer to stop camera shake. One of my friends, Tony, borrowed a tripod from me and braved the cold this week to go out into the streets of Sydney to photograph some of the brilliantly lit buildings that are part of the annual Sydney Vivid Festival. Many of Sydney’s iconic buildings, including the Opera House, are lit with both conventional and laser lights.

I must admit that I was very impressed with some of Tony’s photos. The Opera House picture is a little unsharp, but more than satisfactory. I would suggest a slightly higher shutter speed and increase the ISO rating. AIso would have used a slower ISO and bracketed exposures. A shutter speed of say 5 seconds with a smaller aperture would have made the walking pedestrians disappear. John Pond.

1.

2. If using a rechargeable battery for your camera, it slowly looses its recharging capacity , a typical Lithium Ion batteries last up to 500 cycles after which we will see a decline in its performance. I always purchase a second battery, that way I can fully use battery no.1 until exhaustion (the battery, not me) replacing it with battery No.2.

3. My cardinal rule: always keep your lens spotless, I have seen so many cameras with such grubby lenses that the pictures must look as though they have been shot through a snowstorm. This is especially the case if you have a digital SLR as its lens is more complex and need better maintenance.  If you have a quality camera, buy a UV or Skylight filter.

4. This is for DUMMIES: avoid dropping your camera, people who drop cameras probably drop babies too.  I always put my arm inside the camera strap and when I hand my cameras to others make them do the same.

5. Protect your camera gear when near Salt water which will corrode your camera. If exposed to salt water you should gently wipe its surface with a cloth dipped in fresh water to rinse off remnants of salt water on your camera.

6. Never force hinges, buttons or dials if they seem stuck. Call for technical support an expert can walk you through possible fixes, or advise if the camera is in need of repair.

7. Always turn off the camera before removing or disconnecting the power source or a cable, or removing the battery or memory card. Usually nothing will happen, but why take the risk.

8. Camera storage is important:  if your not going to be using your camera for a long time. Keep it in a cool, dry place and ideally remove the batteries. Don’t place it in direct sunlight for prolonged times or in a car when it is hot. Pointing the camera lens towards strong sunlight for a prolonged time can ruin the sensor.

9. If lens needs cleaning I use very clean cotton sheet or photographic chamois with a little hot breath. If you blow dust off a lens, always blow away from you lens first, then blow on your lens.

10. Replace the cap on your camera’s lens when not in use, this will stop dust settling.

The answer, thanks to modern technology, is the very pocketable digital camera, so small that it fits in the palm of your hand, your shirt pocket or takes up no space in a handbag.  This new generation of high quality camera can be purchased for around $300 plus and they offer great picture quality.  The small memory chips, not much larger than a thumbnail, can hold up to 8GB+ of information but I find anything over 8GB is overkill. Using your camera’s highest resolution, these chips should provide 500 to 1000 images, or used at a lower resolution, we are talking 2000+ images, more than enough for any vacation.

In the old days BDC (Before Digital Cameras) many of us kept travel diaries which were usually not up to date.  We kept dockets and invoices in various coat pockets and at the end of our journey, when we were tyring to put together an expense sheet for taxation purposes, we could not find half of them.

My solution is, at the beginning of a journey I photograph every stage. Arriving at the airport I will photograph the taxi’s meter, then the check in counter at the airport as well as any other interesting airport shots (for my own personal use).  I photograph meals on the plane and on arrival, signs at the airport to indicate my location, this might seem like overkill but looking back weeks or months later it gives a thorough record.

Thanks to the wonderful macro capacity of these new cameras, you can photograph close ups down to the size of a postage stamp with automatic focus, so just hold any invoices or bills in your hand and photograph them.  Also everything is in sequence, there is no problem about what was spent where, this record should keep the tax man happy.  Shoot a local newspaper’s date occasionally to reinforce the timeframe.

On returning home it is easy to download the information (pictures) from the chip to your home or office computer.  I download all the pictures into a file – example “Holland Trip with date”, then I make a copy onto a CD or DVD for a cost of under $1 and file that away as a backup.

IS YOUR CAMERA GOOD ENOUGH? by John Pond.  Do you often feel inadequate because you have a small point and shoot camera when some of your friends get out their BIG digital SLR?  Do you suffer from camera envy?  Well DON’T.

Your camera is probably light and compact enough that you can have it with you at all times, it fits easily in your pocket or purse.  Most probably your camera will take pictures just as good as the camera you may be lusting for, don’t fall into the “mine’s bigger than yours” syndrome.  Enlarged images up to A4 size are often indistinguishable between large and small cameras.

As I grow older I am abandoning my large Digital SLR’s for smaller, lighter models that offer “almost as much resolution” as their bigger brothers (and sisters). Carrying large and heavy cameras around all day is very hard on the back.

SLR’s offer a number of extra features used only occasionally by more advanced photographers.  Some smaller cameras, especially 4/3^rd format are now offering as many features.  But don’t be seduced by these models unless you plan to use these features. Photography has been a great love since I joined The Waverley College Camera Club at 13 years of age.  The Kodak representative visited our school club every month and taught us many things, such as how to develop our films at home and how to make contact prints.

I was hooked and have been a keen photographer ever since.  I spent my Saturday mornings at the two top camera stores in Sydney, one, no longer in existence, Goodman Brothers, the other Paxton’s, who are still around offering great advice. Buy your cameras from sales people that know cameras and love photography. Their advice can be invaluable.  Their salespersons were so helpful and I learnt a lot from them.  I would take my prints and after I bought an enlarger, my enlargements, for review.  Read photo magazines, they are a wealth of information and ideas.

Today’s computers, especially Apple, offer mind blowing options to tweak your photos before printing, or just viewing on your computer screen.  Don’t skimp on a screen, buy the best you can afford for the viewing sensation is worth the extra dollars. Whatever camera you decide to buy, make sure you back up your images on a separate drive or DVD disk. Unlike negatives, electronic images can easily be destroyed or wiped inadvertently.

Nikon D90 set on Auto. ISO 200 1/250 f8

MEGAPIXELS CONFUSE:   The latest digital cameras seem to be all about megapixels. The greater the amount the greater the image, NOT TRUE . Often they are squeezed together on the image sensor producing a high megapixel count, but beware, often a poorer image may result.

A camera with larger and less crowded pixels can produce a high-resolution image. A 10-megapixel camera will easily meet the needs of most photographers. A good lens and larger image sensor are all important.

OTHER IMPORTANT FEATURES: Image stabilization is  one of the most valuable options for a modern digital camera. These systems are mostly built into the camera or lenses purchased. They usually feature gyroscopic motors that detect and counteract any movement in the camera or lens. They help to reduce shutter speed and increase their F/stop range and still have sharp images. Forget and don’t use “digital” stabilization, a worthless feature in my opinion.

Most advanced point and shoot cameras do not have electric zoom lenses, a feature you can do without.  They chew up the battery and are a waste of time.

Sandwich. Olympus 4/3rds ISO 3200 1/200 sec F5 Flash would have washed picture out at such a close distance.

Learn how to set your camera’s ISO rating. Read your instruction book. Turn off your flash and use available light. You will be surprised how more natural your photos will look.

There are so many great cameras being produced, just don’t fall into the MEGAPIXEL TRAP.

Also remember that most computers cant email file sizes above 15 megapixels., and then can only send 1 image per email. You have to reduce your file size to send them, thus defeating the whole point of having large file sizes. If you want to take that next step and don’t want to carry around a heavy SLR, consider the 4/3rds  format. Sensor size is just slightly smaller than SLR’s but several times the size of Point and Shoot cameras. This will result in much better picture quality.

I must admit that I was very impressed with some of Tony’s photos.  The Opera House picture is a little unsharp, but more than satisfactory.  I would suggest a slightly higher shutter speed and increase the ISO rating.  AIso would have used a slower ISO and bracketed exposures. A shutter speed of say 5 seconds with a smaller aperture would have made the walking pedestrians disappear. GREAT WORK TONY.  John Pond

TECHNICAL DETAILS #1: Camera Nikon D90  ISO 1600 Shutter Speed 1/75th second  f5.6  Exposure Bias -2

#2: Camera Nikon D90  ISO 1600 Shutter Speed 1/75th second  f5.6  Exposure Bias -2

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MINI REVIEW: Olympus Pen EP3

The reason for my change to 4/3rd was size and weight. As an International Travel Writer, camera weight was becoming a problem. 4/3rd cameras are half the weight with almost the same quality images as bigger SLR cameras, they have become my camera of choice. I recently purchased a Fuji X10 and an Olympus Pen EP3 at the same time.

Although the Fuji had many desirable features, such as their dual optical/electronic viewfinder and their viewfinder horizon level, the Olympus was the winner by far, giving me most of everything I could want in an“almost”pocketable camera. I highly recommend the Olympus to advanced amateurs and professionals. Another big advantage is that smaller cameras attract less attention and enable me to get more “candid” photos.

As a travel photographer and writer I have many more usable photos since I switched from larger SLR’s to the smaller format due to the fact that I have my camera constantly around my nech due to its lighter weight. There is minimal quality loss in the 4/3rd format.

In this regular column I plan to feature cameras in mini reviews and print photos with technical details. I urge all owners to read their instruction books and expand their photographic horizons. Don’t be afraid to take several images, especially when shooting people. Many a good photo has been ruined by a blink. In future stories we will be talking about memory cards and image manipulation.

TOP PHOTO: On board Emirates flying to Amsterdam. Camera Olympus Pen EP3 available light. 1/50th sec.ISO Rating 1600 Camera on Auto. “I hate using flash. Most cameras offer very good quality non flash images at high ISO ratings. I will explain ISO in future articles”.

PHOTO 2: On board Emirates. Camera Olympus Pen EP3 available light. 1/40th sec. f3.5 ISO Rating 3200 Camera on Auto. I use my camera as a diary when travelling, it beats writing everything down for my articles. I use my cameras neck strap to steady camera. Ideally camera shutter speed should not be below 1/90 second for sharp pictures. Using the cameras anti-shake feature I find I can get sharp pictures with shutter speeds as low as 1/30th sec.